For the main course I would like…Part Three
In the final piece of this blog trilogy of diets and feeding pets, we come to an area often overlooked; presentation of your pet’s food. Read on my lovely gang to step into the new normal of – silver service – for pets, finishing off with the scoop on how to change your pet’s food.
Presentation of your pet’s food is a significant matter, particularly where cats are concerned. The daily display of your pet’s cuisine can be a reason why your pet won’t eat their main course, leaving you concerned or frustrated, or at worst, hand feeding – Please No. No. It’s only cute if they are poorly.
Cast your peepers over these 10 pieces of wisdom about serving your pet’s main course…Whether these are to the standards of The Four Seasons is a different conversation, but here’s what I – Annaliese – recommend:
- Feed puppies and kittens from shallow, wide bowls or saucers, and be armed with kitchen cleaner to use afterwards. The young are unapologetically messy.
- Cats do have a royal presence about them and prefer to be served from wide shallow bowls, as these don’t squash their whiskers while eating (which they hate). Cats’ use their whiskers to judge width of spacesg. can they sneak through a narrow gap they have spied to leg it from the street bully? They do not like having their whiskers interfered with!
- Some cats prefer metal or ceramic bowls over plastic ones, as plastics can give off a certain smell they dislike. Plastic is not a material for royalty. Saying that, some cats and dogs don’t like the clinking noise stainless steel bowls can make when their collar tags hit the bowl whilst eating. Adjust the bowl accordingly to their desired worthiness.
- For elderly or poor-sighted pets, use shallow wide bowls, which are non-slip. Keep them in the same place so they know where to find their food and water. Similar to you when you’ve had one to many – it’s much harder to find stuff! Make it easy for them.
- Fresh water should be available at all times, straight, no ice.
- Clean food bowls daily. Hard-crusted on food encourages bacterial growth and will put some pets off eating. It looks cheap and nasty, nor we do we want extra bugs around. Most metal and some of the ceramic ones can go in the dishwasher – yay.
- Feeding and drinking bowls should not be placed near a cat’s litter tray or toileting area. Our noble felines dislike this terribly and quite often will not eat. Well – would you?
- Many dogs and cats do not like cold food. If you keep opened food in the fridge remove it, and warm to room temperature first.
- In warm weather remove uneaten food, pronto. I had an incident one summer where I left the remainder of my own cat’s food out for around 30 minutes. A fly had already laid its eggs in there…cue little tiny baby maggots all over it. #Fail.
- Use the feeding guides provided on the packaging of your chosen pet food regarding how much to feed. Always measure it out (do not guess with imaginary scales). If they are over or under weight, feed the amount for what they ‘should’ weigh, not what they actually do.
How to change your pet’s diet (and prevent tummy drama)
- Mix a small amount of the new diet in with their current diet. Keep to this ratio for a couple of days.
- After this time, increase the amount of the new diet while decreasing the current diet.
- Continue in this manner until the new diet has replaced their old one. Ideally this should be done approximately over a week.
- If they are not enjoying their new dinner, try adding small amounts of one, of these tempting dips (only ONE, and only for a few days);Gravy, fry it in a small amount of butter, sardines or pilchards in tomato sauce (aka divineness for cats), add water to dry food, add pieces of chicken, ham or beef, wet cat food (aka divineness for dogs), warm the food, or a little of whatever your pets guilty pleasure is.
The chef has now left the building. See you next time!
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